HMU SONIA RESH
STYLING JORDAN ENGEL
Hi all. I thought I'd blog a bit about the details from one of my favorite shoots this year. The editorial ran in MITH magazine a little while back. Our model was Chloe from Nous, an LA-based agency that has consistently amazing talent. Styling was done by Jordan Engel and hair and makeup was done by KC Witkamp. I've worked with both of them on previous shoots and they always do incredible work. #dreamteam
I'd been wanting to do a desert shoot for a while, but my general dislike for driving long distances (LA traffic!) kept me from driving out to the dunes. So I decided to create my own "desert" scene on the balcony of my apartment. It was definitely difficult to create a sense of wide open desert space in such a small area, but the challenge was exciting and I was really pleased with the overall outcome.
I used a mix of natural and studio light. In order to mimic the effect of late-day sunlight, I placed a light with a yellow gel behind the model and shot with a wide aperture to bring in the natural light and also blur the background, giving the impression of more space. I bought bags of sand from Lowes to spread out on the ground and my wonderful husband helped me gather some large branches. We looked like a couple of crazy people dragging these huge branches through our apartment complex. I also used some charcoal and lava rocks (Lowes again) to add texture to the scene later in the shoot. Oh and a fan! Always a fan. I'm a sucker for movement and it's always windy in the desert. All of these elements in front of a white backdrop completed the set. It was NOT fun to clean up but the images were worth it.
I did a bit of color work in post to make the set more believable; mainly, toning down the yellow studio light and also tinting the white backdrop to more closely resemble an actual skyline. There are things I would change given more space and time, but I love the final result and it was great to work with such an awesome team. Images below!
I Google search Iceland at least once a week. Not necessarily because of its recent trendiness, but something about the otherworldly landscape is so fascinating and foreign. Plus, I have an affinity for sparse spaces. I even tried to get James to go for our honeymoon, but glaciers and fog don't make for the most romantic setting. Arguably, there is some sort of sweetness to be found in cozying up by a fire when the weather is cold.
If I could have a dream shoot location, this would be it.
Working with new models is an important part of any portfolio-building process. Whether they’re a new face from an agency or a freelance model looking to build their book, there are a few key aspects to pulling off a successful shoot that both of you are happy with.
1. Get to know your model.
Many of my favorite images came from shoots where I had a strong connection with the model. A photo shoot can be a very intimidating environment for a newer model and you’ll have to put in some effort to make sure she feels comfortable. Ask questions and get to know your model while she is getting hair and makeup done, put on some music that she likes, and maintain a casual, upbeat attitude. If this is her first shoot she’ll likely be nervous, but keeping conversation fun and light will put you both at ease. Creating great images starts here, before you even pick up your camera.
2. Be a leader.
This is a situation where your leadership skills are incredibly important. Give your model a clear idea of what kinds of images you intend to shoot. A mood board or a few inspiration images will help to make sure you are both on the same page.
3. Offer direction.
Shooting with a new face is a learning experience for both of you. You’re learning how to bring out the best in your model, while she is learning how to interact with the camera. Offering clear, concise direction will go a long way. Keep an eye out for poses that look awkward and physically demonstrate how you want the pose to look (this can feel silly, especially if you’re a guy, but often gets you both laughing and puts her at ease). Watch for poor posture, un-relaxed hands, tense arms, and a clenched jaw. Asking for a relaxed mouth or elongated fingers will make a huge difference, and fashion clients notice these small details. Oftentimes, your model has no idea that she is pressing her arms to her body or that her hands are in fists. Learning how to pose well is hard work and takes time to master. Providing a learning environment helps her build her skills and results in better images for both of you.
4. Know what you want.
This is not the time to jump into a shoot blindly, with no idea of what kinds of images you are looking to create. You may be able to get away with this with an experienced model, but a new model is not going to be able to simply move in front of the camera without any input. Create a shot list of 5-10 poses that you want and help your model into those poses with clear directions.
5. Maintain your professionalism.
While a studio environment is ideal, there is no reason you can’t create great images out of your home or in a public setting, like the beach. No matter where you are shooting, it’s important to maintain as much professionalism as possible. If you’re shooting at home, make sure your place is clean and comfortable. Oftentimes, a parent or chaperone will accompany your model to the shoot, so make sure there is a space for them to relax. Offer water or snacks. Hospitality goes a long way and makes everyone feel cared for. If you’re out in public, bring along some bottled water for everyone and make sure you have a space for your model to change (I use a changing tent).
6. Keep it age-appropriate.
A lot of new models are underage. This is a subject you must treat carefully. Make age-appropriate clothing choices, and do not coach an underage model into overly sexy poses. Not only is it inappropriate to ask a young girl to roll around in the sand in a bikini, but it also has the potential to give you a very bad reputation. I’ve seen too many photographers abuse their position and use the eagerness of a new model to create photographs that are far too adult for the models age. This can unfortunately make a photographer come off as creepy, regardless of their intent. Walk this line very carefully, especially if you are a male photographer, and lean towards modesty if you are unsure.
What are your tips for working with new models? Share in the comments below!
When I was starting my career, I spent a lot of time researching ways I could improve my images. Some of the advice was great, but a lot of it was white noise. Many of the articles listed out things that I either already knew, or wasn’t appropriate for the kinds of images I wanted to create. If you’re reading this, I’m guessing you’re in the same boat, reading articles that tell you to “properly expose your images” or “make sure everything is in focus”. These are valuable points, but if you’re aspiring to be a photographer of any sort, those directions are a given. Everyone wants to take clear, in-focus images. The hard part is figuring out how to shoot images that resonate with people and with potential clients. Images that get pinned thousands of times, show up on mood boards, and create an emotional reaction with your viewer. Read on to find out three ways you can improve your fashion photography and create images with lasting impact.
1. Have a vision before you shoot.
This is the single most important part of executing a successful shoot. Your team is looking to you to provide direction, and without that, you’re going to end up with standard “fashion” poses, makeup that you have to retouch the heck out of, and styling that doesn’t make sense. You must take a leadership role and not simply expect to conjure magic out of thin air. The first part of this process is to create a mood board that clearly speaks to everyone on the team what kinds of images you’re trying to achieve. Your mood board should include inspiration images, styling ideas, and hair/makeup references. You can also include a photo of your location, digitals of your model, and simple color swatches. I can’t tell you how many times I went into a shoot with no plan and ended up with images that, while technically good, were not creatively compelling and that I wasn’t excited about.
Secondly, your creative direction doesn’t end with the mood board. You must be able to give direction during the shoot to keep everything on track. I find it helpful to create a list of poses I’d like to capture, usually in the form of pictures on my phone so I can show the model exactly what I’m going for.
2. Organize a great team.
Finding a great team is difficult work. Not all of us can simply call up IMG and ask for a model to shoot with. When you’re starting out, you have to be scrappy and willing to put in a lot of time to assembling your team. Model Mayhem is a great place to start, as you can usually find reasonable talent on there willing to work for trade. You can also call local modeling agencies and ask if they have any new models that need to test. Don’t be intimidated by the agencies; more often than not, they are perfectly willing to work with you if you have a reasonable portfolio to show them. When searching for hair and makeup artists, makeup schools are a great place to start. Many students are looking to build their portfolios and are willing to do shoots in return for images. Lastly, find yourself a stylist. Do not put the weight of styling on yourself, even if you feel you can do it! This will only take away from the energy you are putting into the photography, and will stress you out beyond belief (trust me). Reach out to stylish friends or local fashion bloggers and ask to collaborate.
3. Don’t be afraid to speak up.
I remember a shoot I did in the early stages of my career. The images were intended to be soft and natural, shot at the beach with lots of hair/wind action and loose clothing. I had done my research, organized a team I felt confident in, and found a great beach location. The shoot was going to be awesome! But as the day began, I noticed a few things that weren’t reading well in the images. The makeup was too heavy for the setting, the model’s hair looked overly stylized for our theme, and the clothing was not at all in line with the mood board I’d sent out the week before. For the record, none of the styling and makeup was “bad”; it simply didn’t work with the vision I had for the shoot. But I carried on without a word, not wanting to offend anyone or make waves. When I got the images onto my computer, I wasn’t happy with any of them. I still edited and sent them out to the team for their portfolios, but the images never made it into my book. I had put hours of work into this shoot and ended up with nothing to show for it. Moral of the story? Don’t be afraid to say when something isn’t working. Fashion photography is a collaborative effort. Just because your team is working for trade does not mean you are locked in to shoot what they create- you’re working for trade too! So when the shade of lipstick on your model is too dark, or the jacket your stylist pulled looks bulky, speak up. Be kind, be professional, but speak up and offer clear suggestions. Simply saying “I don’t like it” is going to annoy your team and make you look like a jerk. This is not the time to throw a tantrum and scream at people. Be confident enough in your creative eye to know when something isn’t working. Most of the time, people are fine with making small changes so long as you treat them respectfully. Plus, they’ll end up with better images for it!
When you are planning your next fashion shoot, keep these three points in mind: Have a vision, assemble a team, and communicate changes when needed. You’ll end up with images that you are proud to add to your portfolio and that clearly demonstrate your vision as a fashion photographer.